See It From Both Sides — But Stay on the Canada Side
Niagara Falls, NY • Niagara Falls, ON • Niagara-on-the-Lake, ON
Niagara Falls is one of those places you think you know before you’ve ever been. You’ve seen the photos. You’ve seen it in movies. You think: okay, big waterfall, got it.
And then you actually stand there.
And nothing — not a single photo or film or description — prepares you for the sound. The mist. The sheer, primal power of millions of gallons of water crashing down in front of you every single second. It’s one of those rare travel moments where you actually go quiet. Even our girls, who are not known for going quiet, went quiet.
We explored both the US and Canadian sides, discovered the absolute gem that is Niagara-on-the-Lake, got completely soaked on a boat headed straight for Horseshoe Falls, and watched fireworks explode over the falls after dark. And I have one very clear takeaway for you:
✨ See it from both sides — but stay on the Canada side. Trust me on this one.
Pro Tip: Fly into Buffalo, NY and rent a car. It gives you the flexibility to explore the US side first, then drive across the border to Canada at your own pace — no tours, no schedules. The drive from Buffalo to the falls is less than 30 minutes.




🇺🇸 Day 1: The US Side — Where It All Begins
We started on the American side, and I’m so glad we did — because it gives you a completely different perspective before crossing into Canada. Niagara Falls State Park is actually the oldest state park in the United States, established in 1885, and it’s free to enter.
Here’s the thing most people don’t know: Niagara Falls isn’t one waterfall. It’s three. And the US side gives you access to all of them up close:
🌊 The Three Falls — A Quick Primer
- American Falls — about 75,000 gallons of water per second rush over its crest, which is over 1,000 feet wide. It’s powerful, imposing, and the one most people picture. The best head-on view is from Prospect Point.
- Bridal Veil Falls — the smallest of the three but absolutely ethereal. Separated from the American Falls by tiny Luna Island, it’s named for the way the water cascades like a delicate veil. It’s 181 feet tall and is the most accessible — the Cave of the Winds tour takes you right to its base.
- Horseshoe Falls (Canadian Falls) — the big one. Over 600,000 gallons of water per second pour over its curved crest. It straddles the US/Canada border but is best viewed — by a mile — from the Canadian side.





















🥾 Cave of the Winds
This is a must-do on the US side and one of those experiences that genuinely takes your breath away. You descend by elevator down the face of the cliff into the Niagara Gorge, where you’re handed a poncho and directed to a series of wooden walkways and decks built right at the base of the Bridal Veil Falls.
The original Cave of the Winds was a natural cavern behind the falls discovered by two college students in 1834 — and guided tours started running as far back as 1841. The cave itself was destroyed by a massive rockfall in 1954, but the experience that replaced it is arguably better: you can walk all the way to the Hurricane Deck, which puts you just 20 feet from the Bridal Veil Falls. Twenty feet. The water is crashing around you, the mist is everywhere, and the sound is something you feel in your chest, not just your ears.
✨ Prepare to get absolutely soaked. That is not a warning, it is a promise. Embrace it.
🏝️ Terrapin Point & Luna Island
After Cave of the Winds, walk across Goat Island to Terrapin Point for the closest US-side views of the Horseshoe Falls — and then loop back to Luna Island, the tiny rock outcrop wedged between the American Falls and Bridal Veil Falls. Standing on Luna Island, you are literally surrounded by falling water on both sides. It’s one of the most surreal, humbling spots in the entire park.
Standing above the American and Bridal Veil Falls was absolutely unreal — the rainbows, the seagulls riding the mist, the roar of the water, the spray hitting your face. The girls were asking questions non-stop and honestly, so was I. Some places make you feel wonderfully, gloriously small. This is one of them.
🍴 Lunch at Top of the Falls Restaurant
After all that waterfall energy, we settled in for a late lunch at the Top of the Falls Restaurant — outdoor seating, views of the falls, great weather. It’s one of those meals where you keep looking up from your food because the view just keeps pulling you back in. Highly recommend sitting outside if the weather allows.
🍦 Bryce’s Ice Cream Truck
We ended the US side with ice cream from Bryce’s truck — a Niagara Falls institution that’s been scooping cones near the park for years. Is there a better way to finish a day at the falls than with an ice cream cone? There is not.
Pro Tip: Skip the Maid of the Mist on the US side if you’re planning to cross into Canada — the Niagara City Cruises boat experience from the Canadian side is significantly better. Save the boat for Canada.






🇨🇦 Crossing Into Canada
Driving across the border into Canada is easier than people expect — have your passport ready, answer a few questions, and within minutes you’re on the other side. And the moment you cross, the view of Horseshoe Falls begins to reveal itself in a way that makes you immediately understand why the Canadian side has the reputation it does.
We checked into our Airbnb — and location is everything here. We were walking distance to restaurants, Clifton Hill, and the falls themselves. If you can find an Airbnb in a central walkable location, do it. You will not regret it.



🍣 Dinner: Taku Sushi & Ramen
For our first dinner on the Canadian side, we stopped at Taku Sushi & Ramen and it was absolutely delicious — fresh, flavorful, exactly what we needed after a full day of waterfall adventuring.



🎡 Clifton Hill After Dark
After dinner, we walked to Clifton Hill — the entertainment district of Niagara Falls, Ontario, packed with attractions, restaurants, candy shops, and enough neon to power a small city. The girls were immediately in their element.
We hit:
- Frankenstein’s Haunted House — the girls wanted to be scared. They weren’t.
- SkyWheel Niagara — the giant Ferris wheel overlooking the falls. I need to stop here and say this: BOOK IT AT SUNSET. It was one of the most beautiful things I’ve ever seen — the sky turning orange and pink over Horseshoe Falls from above. Worth every penny. 🌅
- Beavertails — if you’ve never had a BeaverTail, imagine a stretched, fried pastry the size of your face topped with cinnamon sugar, Nutella, or anything your heart desires. A Canadian institution and completely impossible to say no to.
- The Upside Down House — because why not?
- Hershey’s Store — where the girls discovered fresh s’mores. They had seconds. Then attempted thirds.
Pro Tip: If you’re planning to hit multiple Clifton Hill attractions, get the Fun Pass before you start — you can save quite a bit of money. We didn’t know this until we’d already paid for several things individually. Learn from us. 😂










































🎆 The Niagara Falls Fireworks — Every. Single. Night.
Here is something I genuinely did not know before this trip: Niagara Falls has a fireworks show every night at 10pm. Every night! Five minutes, right over the falls, from mid-May through mid-October.
We were walking around Clifton Hill when we started hearing the booms and followed the sound toward the water — and what we found was extraordinary. The fireworks launch directly over the Niagara River, exploding above the falls while the falls themselves are lit up in their full illuminated glory (the Niagara Falls Illumination Board has been lighting the falls since 1925 — they recently upgraded to LED lights that create a full rainbow spectrum).
Watching fireworks burst over one of the most powerful waterfalls on the planet, the mist catching the light, the colours reflecting off the water below — it was five minutes that felt like a full show. We watched with our mouths open. All four of us.
✨ Five minutes of fireworks over Niagara Falls hits differently than any fireworks show I’ve seen anywhere. The backdrop is incomparable.







🌸 Day 2: Niagara-on-the-Lake — The Town That Stole Our Hearts
I was not prepared for Niagara-on-the-Lake. None of us were.
Known locally as NOTL, this is one of the most charming, beautiful, and genuinely delightful small towns I’ve ever set foot in. Forbes named it one of the Top 5 Weekend Getaway Towns in Ontario, and after spending a day here, I’m convinced they were underselling it. It’s the kind of place that makes you slow down without even trying — flower boxes overflowing on every storefront, Victorian architecture lining every street, horse-drawn carriages rolling past, and an atmosphere so lovely it almost feels fictional.
We loved it so much we went back the next day. That’s how good it is.









🥑 Breakfast at av.o.ca.do
We started our NOTL morning at av.o.ca.do — fresh, healthy, exactly the kind of breakfast that sets you up for a full day of exploring without weighing you down. The perfect start.
☕ The Dough Diaries (aka The Dough Story)
Next stop: coffee and a coffee cake from The Dough Diaries — a beloved little bakery that does what good bakeries do: makes everything from scratch with actual love. The coffee cake was the kind of thing you think about for days after. ☕️
🥐 Niagara Home Bakery
And then we stumbled into Niagara Home Bakery — and found Pastel de Nata from Lisbon. YES. The iconic Portuguese custard tarts, thousands of miles from Portugal, in a small Canadian bakery in Niagara-on-the-Lake. This town contains multitudes and we are completely here for it. 🇵🇹
🎄 Just Christmas
Just Christmas is exactly what it sounds like: a shop entirely dedicated to Christmas, open year-round, because apparently some people (us) cannot resist stepping into a full Christmas wonderland in the middle of summer. No regrets. Zero.
🍪 Craig’s Cookies
Craig’s Cookies is a NOTL institution — handcrafted cookies in rotating flavors that are soft, generous, and completely worth derailing whatever diet you came here with. We sampled. We bought. We came back the next day. That’s the Craig’s Cookies cycle and there is no escaping it.









💊 The Niagara Apothecary — A Pharmacist’s Dream
Okay, I have to tell you about this one because it was genuinely one of my favorite moments of the entire trip — and I say that as a pharmacist.
The Niagara Apothecary at 5 Queen Street is a National Historic Site of Canada and one of the most beautifully preserved 19th-century pharmacies in North America. It opened in 1820 — over 200 years ago — and operated continuously for 144 years under six successive owners, most of whom apprenticed under the one before them. When it finally closed in 1964, the last owner ensured the Ontario College of Pharmacists had first rights to purchase and preserve it. It reopened as a museum in 1971 and has barely changed since.
Walking in was like stepping through a portal. The original walnut fixtures, the hand-labeled apothecary jars still lining the shelves, the mortar and pestle, the rows of old patent medicines — “cure-alls” for everything from hair loss to tuberculosis, most of which contained varying degrees of opiates and alcohol (19th-century medicine was… something). The shop smells exactly like you’d imagine a Victorian pharmacy to smell.
The owner Norris — also a former pharmacist — and I connected immediately over that shared background, and he took me behind the scenes for a private tour. I was in absolute awe. If you have any connection to medicine, pharmacy, or history, please do not skip this stop.
✨ A pharmacy frozen in time. The original jars still on the shelves, 200 years of pharmaceutical history in one beautiful little room. I could have stayed all afternoon.
Pro Tip: Free admission — donations are welcome. Run by volunteers from the Ontario College of Pharmacists. One of the best free stops in all of NOTL.






🏰 Prince of Wales Hotel — Est. 1864
We stopped to admire the magnificent Prince of Wales Hotel — a Victorian landmark that has stood on this corner since 1864, just three years before Canadian Confederation. The cornerstone with the original date is still visible on the building.
Here’s the royal story: the hotel has gone by several names over the years — Long’s Hotel, The Arcade Hotel, The Niagara House — and was finally renamed The Prince of Wales in 1901 after the Duke and Duchess of York came to stay. Those two guests were later crowned King George V and Queen Mary. Queen Elizabeth II herself also visited in 1973. The hotel now ranks in the top 10% of hotels worldwide on Tripadvisor and was named Best Historic Luxury Hotel in Canada for 2026.
You don’t have to stay there to soak in the history — just standing in front of it on a sunny afternoon, watching horse-drawn carriages roll past (there’s a carriage station right outside!), is a complete moment.






🌳 Simcoe Park
After all that exploring, we found a bench in Simcoe Park — a beautiful little green space right in the heart of town — and just… stopped. The girls ran around chasing squirrels, doing cartwheels and roundoffs on the grass, completely in their element. No agenda. No schedule. Just a sunny afternoon in the prettiest town we’d ever seen.
✨ These are the moments that end up meaning the most. No agenda, just grass and squirrels and kids doing cartwheels in the sunshine.





🍬 Olde Tyme Candy Shoppe
We filled bags with old-school candies at the Olde Tyme Candy Shoppe — the kind of place where every candy takes you back to childhood and the girls suddenly became experts on which ones were the best. (They were wrong about several, but I stayed quiet.)






🇳🇬 Budapest Bakeshop — The Chimney Cake Discovery
And then we stumbled upon Budapest Bakeshop — and let me tell you, this was a discovery.
Founded by Anett and Todd Kane, Budapest Bakeshop brings authentic Hungarian chimney cakes — Kürtőskalács, a 300-year-old pastry — to Niagara-on-the-Lake. The process is incredible to watch: sweet yeasted dough hand-rolled around a cylindrical dowel, baked on a rotisserie until the outside caramelizes into golden perfection and the inside stays soft and layered. Then the dowel is removed, leaving a hollow, steaming tower of pastry that pulls apart in warm, doughy ribbons.
They do sweet versions (cinnamon sugar, Nutella walnut, coconut) and savory versions — including the jalapeño cheddar chimney cake that we tried and that was SO GOOD. The kind of good where you’re still talking about it at dinner.
Walk down Queen Street and just follow the smell. You will find it. You will thank me.
✨ Everything is hand-rolled and baked fresh throughout the day. Nothing frozen, nothing reheated. Just follow the smell of freshly baked goodness — it leads straight to Budapest Bakeshop every time.






🍀 The Floral Clock at Queenston
After we declared ourselves officially done with eating, we drove to Queenston to visit the famous Floral Clock — and it is as charming as it sounds.
Built in 1950 by Ontario Hydro along the scenic Niagara Parkway, the Floral Clock is 40 feet wide and filled with between 15,000 and 20,000 vibrant carpet plants and colorful annuals — making it one of the largest floral clocks in the world. The floral design is completely replanted twice a year. An ivy-clad stone tower behind the clock broadcasts Westminster chimes every quarter hour. The clock hands are stainless steel: the minute hand alone is 17.5 feet long and weighs hundreds of pounds. It is photographed, the locals will tell you with great pride, almost as often as the falls themselves.
✨ A 40-foot clock made of 16,000 flowers that chimes every 15 minutes along one of the most beautiful parkways in Canada. Completely free to visit and completely worth the detour.






🚤 Day 3: The Full Canadian Experience — Boat, Tunnel & Tower
Today we did things properly — with a GetYourGuide tour that included the Skylon Tower, Journey Behind the Falls, and the Niagara City Cruises boat ride. Here’s my honest take:
You can book these three experiences separately and it will be cheaper. But you will wait in long lines. We are talking significant waits, especially in peak season. The tour we booked — at $510.70 for 3 adults and 1 child — included line-skipping access to all three, AND the guide picked us up directly at our Airbnb. No parking, no meeting points, no stress. Whether that trade-off is worth it to you depends on how much you value your time. For us, with kids, it absolutely was.
🏙️ Skylon Tower
Our first stop was the Skylon Tower — Niagara Falls’ iconic observation tower, rising 775 feet above the falls and offering 360-degree panoramic views of both the American Falls and the majestic Horseshoe Falls. From up here, you finally understand the full scale of what you’re looking at: both countries spread out below you, the Niagara River snaking through the gorge, and the two sets of falls side by side.
Our guide gave us the full history — including how the American and Canadian power plants harness the Niagara River, generating electricity for millions of homes, and how carefully the flow of the falls is managed to balance power generation with the visual experience for visitors. There’s a lot happening beneath the surface of what looks like pure natural wonder.













🌊 Journey Behind the Falls
This one was surreal. You descend underground through tunnels carved directly into the rock behind Horseshoe Falls, then emerge onto observation decks at the very brink of the falls — where you’re standing directly behind the curtain of water with 672,000 gallons rushing past you every second.
The roar is indescribable. The mist is real. The power is overwhelming in the best way. You come out of those tunnels with a completely different relationship to what Niagara Falls actually is.
✨ Being behind a waterfall is one thing. Being behind THIS waterfall is another thing entirely.


















🚤 Niagara City Cruises — The Boat Ride
And then the boat. Oh, the boat.
The Niagara City Cruises catamaran takes you out onto the Niagara River and directly toward the base of Horseshoe Falls — and I genuinely cannot find the words to describe what that feels like. The roar gets louder as you get closer. The mist starts as a light spray and builds into a full-on deluge. You’re handed a red poncho before boarding, and you will need it. You will be soaked from head to toe. It is completely irrelevant. You are too busy having your mind blown.
Multiple rainbows form in the mist around you. The sound is not just something you hear — it vibrates in your body. The falls tower above you and the boat moves closer and closer and at some point you stop thinking entirely and just feel it.
✨ The power. The roar. The mist that soaks you from head to toe. The rainbows. This boat ride is one of the most visceral, awe-inspiring experiences I’ve had anywhere in the world.
Pro Tip: The falls are absolutely worth seeing from the Canadian side — the view from the Canada shore puts you directly across from the full curve of Horseshoe Falls in a way the US side simply cannot match. Do both sides, but know that Canada wins the falls view. Also – save the yellow ponchos from the Journey Behind the Falls for you shoes – trust me you will thank me later!












🍦 Post-Tour: Swirl Ice Cream
After the tour, we stopped at Swirl and ate ice cream while standing in front of Horseshoe Falls at close range, still damp from the boat. It was perfect. Completely, perfectly perfect.






🍛 Dinner: Balti Indian Restaurant
For dinner, we tried Balti Indian Restaurant — a local spot that was packed for good reason. Fair warning: it was delightfully, enthusiastically spicy. All four of us agreed it was delicious, all four of us also agreed our taste buds needed a moment.
🎆 Beavertails & Fireworks, Round Two
We grabbed to-go Beavertails and made our way as close to the falls as possible for the 10pm fireworks. And watching them from that vantage point — right by the water, the falls lit up in the illumination board’s full LED rainbow, fireworks exploding directly above — was even more spectacular than the first night.
Five minutes. That’s all it is. Five minutes that feel like so much more.









🍁 Day 4: Maple Syrup & Back to Niagara-on-the-Lake (Because Of Course)
🍁 Maple Leaf Place — The Maple Syrup Tasting
We couldn’t leave Canada without a proper maple syrup tasting experience — and Maple Leaf Place delivered. Tasting different grades and varieties of Canadian maple syrup side by side is genuinely fun and genuinely delicious. Dark? Amber? Medium? By the end you have opinions. Strong opinions.









🌸 Niagara-on-the-Lake, Take Two
We loved NOTL so much that we decided to go back one more time before heading home. And it was just as beautiful the second time.
We started with coffee at Café Lumière — a darling little shop with a beautiful ambiance that felt like exactly the kind of place you’d linger for an hour if you didn’t have a whole town to revisit. Warm, beautifully decorated, the kind of coffee shop that makes you want to stay.
After coffee, we literally just found a bench — and sat. And soaked it in. Because one of the things that makes NOTL so special is that every single storefront on Queen Street has flowers everywhere. Window boxes overflowing with blooms, flower arrangements in doorways, hanging baskets dripping with color. In summer, the whole street looks like a painting. You could sit on a bench and just look at it for an hour and feel like you’ve done something meaningful with your time.
✨ Every single shop on Queen Street has flowers spilling out of window boxes and doorways. In summer, NOTL looks like someone turned a Hallmark movie set into a real town. It is that beautiful.
We hit our favorites again: Craig’s Cookies (obviously), Olde Tyme Candy Shoppe (obviously), and one final stop at Budapest Bakeshop for chimney cakes for the road. Because of course.
Our 15-year-old also found Nina Gelateria and Pastry Shop, where she discovered Dubai chocolate strawberries — her absolute obsession — and declared it the best discovery of the entire trip. High praise from a teenager.

















🧠 Jalpa’s Pro Tips for Niagara Falls
Pro Tip: Fly into Buffalo, NY and rent a car. It’s the most flexible, affordable way to do both sides of the falls on your own schedule.
Pro Tip: Start on the US side, then cross into Canada. The US side gives you incredible up-close access to the American and Bridal Veil Falls; the Canadian side gives you the best view of Horseshoe Falls and the better overall experience. You want both perspectives.
Pro Tip: Get the Clifton Hill Fun Pass before you start — you’ll save money if you plan to hit multiple attractions. We learned this the hard way after paying individually for several.
Pro Tip: Book the SkyWheel at sunset. Non-negotiable. The views over Horseshoe Falls as the sun goes down are something I will remember for the rest of my life.
Pro Tip: The Canada-side boat ride (Niagara City Cruises) is a completely different experience from the US Maid of the Mist — it gets closer to Horseshoe Falls and the scale is incomparable. If you’re only doing one boat, do the Canadian one.
Pro Tip: For the tour combo (Skylon Tower + Journey Behind the Falls + Boat), buying through GetYourGuide costs more but includes line-skipping and pickup at your accommodation. During peak season with kids, it was absolutely worth it for us.
Pro Tip: Stay in a centrally located Airbnb within walking distance of the falls and Clifton Hill. Parking is a nightmare and being walkable to everything changes the whole experience.
Pro Tip: Add at least a full day in Niagara-on-the-Lake. Go hungry, go slow, and just wander Queen Street. It will become your favorite part of the whole trip.
Pro Tip: The nightly fireworks at 10pm are free to watch. Position yourself near the falls for the best view — watching them explode over the illuminated falls is extraordinary.
🍴 Niagara Food & Experiences Guide
US Side
- Top of the Falls Restaurant — outdoor seating, falls views, great for a long lunch
- Bryce’s Ice Cream Truck — the classic post-waterfall treat
Niagara Falls, Canada
- Taku Sushi & Ramen — delicious, fresh, highly recommend
- Beavertails — the Canadian fried pastry experience you cannot skip
- Swirl Ice Cream — eat it with a view of Horseshoe Falls, obviously
- Balti Indian Restaurant — flavourful, spicy, worth it
Niagara-on-the-Lake
- av.o.ca.do — fresh, healthy breakfast to start the day right
- The Dough Diaries — coffee and coffee cake, baked with love
- Niagara Home Bakery — for Pastel de Nata and the element of surprise
- Craig’s Cookies — come hungry, leave with a bag
- Budapest Bakeshop — follow the smell of chimney cakes down Queen Street. Try the jalapeño cheddar.
- Olde Tyme Candy Shoppe — old-school candy shop perfection
- Nina Gelateria & Pastry Shop — for Dubai chocolate strawberries and perfect gelato
- Café Lumière — for coffee with beautiful ambiance on your second morning
Experiences Worth Booking
- Cave of the Winds (US side) — get within 20 feet of Bridal Veil Falls. Bring a change of clothes or just fully surrender.
- Niagara City Cruises Boat (Canada side) — the boat ride to the base of Horseshoe Falls. One of the most powerful experiences I’ve had anywhere.
- Journey Behind the Falls — tunnels through the rock, behind the curtain of water. Surreal.
- Skylon Tower — panoramic views of both falls from above
- SkyWheel at Clifton Hill — book at sunset. Period.
- Maple Leaf Place maple syrup tasting — a must before leaving Canada
- Niagara Apothecary — free, fascinating, a time capsule of 19th-century pharmacy
💭 Final Thoughts
Niagara Falls is one of those places that reminds you why travel exists.
Not just for the falls — though the falls alone are worth the trip. But for the way it all layers together: the raw, ancient power of the water on one side, the warmth and charm of Niagara-on-the-Lake on the other, the fireworks reflecting off the mist at night, the chimney cakes and cookie shops and an apothecary that hasn’t changed in 150 years.
It’s a trip that gave us something for everyone — adventure, history, beauty, and a ridiculous amount of delicious food. The girls were completely captivated. I was completely captivated. And we all came home a little damp, very full, and already talking about going back.
See it from both sides. Stay on the Canada side. Go to Niagara-on-the-Lake. And follow the smell of chimney cakes down Queen Street.
You’ll thank me. 🌊❤️🇨🇦
www.jalpajourneys.com • @jalpajourneys
