Travel Diary: 11 Days of Coastal Charm, Island Adventures & Unforgettable Family Memories
11 Days • September–October • Split, Hvar, Plitvice, Zadar, Krka & Dubrovnik
From the ancient streets of Split to the island magic of Hvar, the turquoise waterfalls of Plitvice Lakes, the musical sunsets of Zadar, and the storybook beauty of Dubrovnik—here’s our family’s Croatian adventure, complete with the places we loved, the food we couldn’t stop talking about, and a few honest tips I wish I’d known before we went.
Croatia, you were something special. 🇭🇷



There are trips you take to see beautiful places, and then there are trips that stay with you because of how they make you feel. Our September–October adventure through Croatia gave us a little bit of everything: historic cities that felt like stepping back in time, islands that looked almost unreal, waterfalls that left us speechless, sunsets that made us put our phones down (occasionally!), and plenty of gelato stops that were absolutely necessary for all the walking we were doing. At least, that’s what we told ourselves.
We spent 11 days exploring Croatia as a family, with our girls joining us for every adventure, spontaneous detour, food discovery, and the occasional “Mom, how much farther are we walking?” moment. I had planned our route to include a mix of history, nature, coastal scenery, local food, and enough downtime to actually enjoy it all. Because if there’s one thing I’ve learned about traveling with kids, it’s that a beautifully planned itinerary is wonderful—but a well-rested family is even better. Our journey took us through Split, Hvar, Plitvice Lakes National Park, Zadar, Krka National Park, and Dubrovnik. Each destination had its own personality, and by the end, we understood why Croatia has become such a favorite for travelers who love a little history with their sunshine and a lot of charm with their coastline.
So, if Croatia is on your travel list, come along! I’m sharing our day-by-day itinerary, favorite restaurants, places worth your time, honest reviews, and practical tips to help you plan your own adventure.
A quick note: restaurant prices, ferry schedules, attraction fees, and seasonal operations change. The prices below are what we paid or recorded during our trip, not guaranteed current rates.

🇭🇷 Day 1: Arrival in Split & Our First Taste of Croatia
Our Croatian adventure began in Split, a beautiful coastal city on Croatia’s Dalmatian coast. Split has an incredible mix of ancient Roman history, lively waterfront cafés, narrow stone streets, and a distinctly Mediterranean rhythm. We landed, collected our things—or at least, we expected to—and made our way by Uber to the Radisson Blu Resort & Spa, our first home base.
There was just one small problem. Our luggage didn’t arrive.
Because apparently, the universe wanted us to start our Croatian adventure with a shopping excursion. Nothing says “welcome to Europe” quite like shopping for pajamas and outfits because your suitcase decided to take a different vacation. We picked up the essentials we needed for the next day and tried to laugh it off. What else could we do?
Thankfully, the hotel gave us a comfortable place to settle in, and we were ready to make the most of our first evening.
🍽️ Dinner at The Mint
For dinner, we stayed close to home and headed to The Mint, the hotel’s rooftop restaurant and bar. After a travel day, it was exactly the kind of easy start we needed. We could relax, enjoy dinner, and take in the atmosphere without adding another complicated excursion to the schedule.
Pro Tip: Keep your first evening in a new city flexible, especially after a long flight. You never know what delays, luggage mishaps, or tired little travelers might have in store.
🏛️ Our First Evening in Old Town Split
Once we were ready to head out, we made our way into the Old Town, and just like that, Croatia started winning us over. The historic stone buildings, little shops, lively streets, and warm evening atmosphere made wandering around feel like an activity in itself. We explored, browsed a few shops, and stopped to admire the architecture.
One of Split’s most fascinating features is how seamlessly its history blends into everyday life. The heart of the city grew around the Palace of the Roman emperor Diocletian, built in the late third and early fourth centuries. Today, what was once an imperial residence is woven into the living city, with shops, restaurants, homes, and public squares occupying its historic spaces. The palace complex is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
And naturally, no first evening in Croatia would be complete without gelato. Gelateria Emiliana was our first gelato stop, and it would become a recurring theme throughout our stay in Split. You’ll soon notice that gelato was not an occasional treat on this trip. It was practically a sightseeing category.
We finished the evening back at the hotel, enjoying the view from our balcony. We weren’t out clubbing, but let’s just say we could see—and hear—plenty of the beachside nightlife from where we were.
The Adriatic coastline was beautiful, the evening air felt wonderful, and we were finally settling into vacation mode, and thankfully, we had a fresh set of clothes.





🏰 Day 2: Diocletian’s Palace, Local Markets & Sunset from Marjan Hill
We started the day slowly with breakfast at the hotel. After the travel and luggage drama, everyone needed a little breathing room before we began exploring.
🏛️ Inside Diocletian’s Palace
Our first major activity was a guided walking tour of Diocletian’s Palace and Split’s Old Town, which we arranged through GetYourGuide. We paid approximately €15 per person for our local-guided experience. If you enjoy history, I highly recommend exploring the palace with a guide. Without one, you might walk past centuries of fascinating history without realizing what you’re looking at. With a guide, every stone seems to have a story.
The palace isn’t a traditional palace where you enter through one gate and walk through a series of royal rooms. It’s an enormous historic complex that has evolved into the heart of Split itself. We explored its courtyards, stone passageways, ancient structures, and bustling squares while learning about Emperor Diocletian and the city’s Roman past. A few places worth looking out for:
- Peristyle: The monumental central courtyard, surrounded by impressive stone architecture. It’s one of the most recognizable spaces in the palace.
- Cathedral of St. Domnius: Originally built as Diocletian’s mausoleum, it became a cathedral centuries later. The bell tower is particularly famous for its views over the rooftops of Split.
- Jupiter’s Temple: A small but fascinating Roman temple that reflects the religious history of the palace.
- The underground cellars: These preserved spaces reveal how the palace was constructed and are especially exciting for Game of Thrones fans. Parts of the cellars appeared as the setting associated with Daenerys Targaryen and her dragons in the series.
The combination of Roman ruins and everyday modern life is what makes Split so special. You aren’t just looking at history from behind a glass case. You’re walking through it.
After our tour, we made a gelato stop at Gelateria Riva Split before heading out to explore more of the city. Yes, more gelato. We’re consistent if nothing else.





















🌴 The Riva Promenade & Prokurative Square
We continued to the Riva, Split’s waterfront promenade. Lined with palm trees, cafés, restaurants, and places to sit and people-watch, the Riva is one of the city’s most enjoyable spaces. Ferries move through the harbor, locals gather over coffee, and visitors wander along the waterfront. It’s the kind of place where you can simply sit, watch the world go by, and feel like you’re part of the city for a little while. We continued exploring on our own, including Prokurative Square, a beautiful open square with Venetian-inspired architecture and a different atmosphere from the narrow lanes of the Old Town.








🥐 A Bakery Stop at Bobis
By lunchtime, we were ready for something delicious.
We stopped at Bobis, a well-known Croatian bakery and pastry shop, and this is where I discovered one of my favorites: the krafna (a doughnut-style pastry). We also tried the mali burek špinat, a small spinach burek pastry, which was another winner. The hubs and the girls sampled other pastries, and everyone found something they loved. One of my favorite things about traveling is discovering everyday local foods. It’s not always the fancy restaurant dinner that becomes memorable. Sometimes it’s a pastry you stumble upon, eat while walking, and spend the rest of the trip wishing you’d bought another one.


🎺 The Palace’s Noon Ceremony
After lunch, we returned to the palace area for the noon ceremony. The palace’s historic central square is known for ceremonial appearances associated with Roman imperial traditions, including costumed performances that evoke the presence of Emperor Diocletian. Exact performances and schedules can vary, so check locally if this is something you want to see. It’s an entertaining way to experience the city’s connection to its Roman past, especially if you’re traveling with children.




☕ The Croatian Coffee Ritual
Next came one of my favorite discoveries. Order a kava, find a seat outside, and simply enjoy the moment. We stopped at Kala Caffe Bar inside the palace area, and it was the perfect place to pause and soak in the atmosphere. No rushing. No checking off another attraction.
We stopped at Kala Caffe Bar inside the palace area, and it was the perfect place to pause and soak in the atmosphere.
Croatia reminded me that sometimes the best way to experience a destination is to stop trying to see everything and simply be there.



🛍️ Pazar Market & Hidden Old Town Lanes
After coffee, we explored Pazar Market, the lively outdoor market near the palace’s eastern side. Depending on the season and vendor, you’ll find fresh produce, local specialties, lavender products, honey, and handmade items. It’s a lovely place to browse for souvenirs and get a glimpse of everyday local life. We continued through the palace’s narrow lanes, passing through historic gates and discovering hidden courtyards along the way.
One place I recommend looking for is Crkva sv. Martina, or the Church of St. Martin. It’s a tiny historic church tucked into the Golden Gate passageway, occupying a narrow space within the former defensive corridor. Its small size makes it easy to miss, but that’s exactly why it’s such a fun discovery.
After hours of exploring, we returned to the hotel for a well-earned rest.
🍕 Dinner at PIZZAFERAJ City
That evening, we headed out for dinner at PIZZAFERAJ City. The sourdough pizza was absolutely delicious, and the ambience made the meal even better. It was one of those dinners where everyone was happy, the food arrived at just the right time, and nobody was asking how much longer until we could go back to the hotel. After dinner, we headed to Marjan Hill Park for a sunset hike.





🌅 Golden Hour at Marjan Hill
Marjan Hill is a green, forested area overlooking Split, with walking paths, viewpoints, and beautiful views of the Adriatic. We made our way up through the pine-shaded paths, enjoying the changing light as the sun began to lower. The walk was a wonderful contrast to the busy Old Town we’d spent the day exploring. At the top, the views opened up across Split, the harbor, and the surrounding islands.
If you enjoy combining a little movement with a beautiful view, this is absolutely worth adding to your itinerary. Allow enough time to walk at a comfortable pace and enjoy the scenery rather than rushing straight to the viewpoint.
We spent a couple of hours soaking it all in before heading back to the hotel. And before calling it a night, we packed a small overnight bag for Hvar.










My luggage tip: If you’re taking a passenger catamaran to an island, leave your large suitcases at your hotel when possible. Ask the hotel about luggage storage in advance, or check whether the port offers a suitable storage service. Carrying only what you need for an overnight stay makes the whole experience much easier.
Tomorrow, we were off to an island we’d been looking forward to exploring.
🏝️ Day 3: Hvar — Island Charm, Gelato & a Golden Sunset
There are some mornings when waking up early for an excursion is exciting. And then there are mornings when the entire family needs a little extra sleep before anyone can be expected to be charming. This was a slow morning by design. We enjoyed breakfast at the hotel, let the girls rest, and prepared for our journey to Hvar.
If you’re traveling with children or teenagers, please take this as your reminder: don’t fill every single morning with an early start. A little downtime makes a huge difference in everyone’s mood, especially when your itinerary includes as much walking and exploring as ours did.
⛴️ Taking the Catamaran to Hvar
We took the 10:10 a.m. Jadrolinija catamaran from Split to Hvar Town. Our crossing took approximately an hour. For our trip, we recorded a fare of around €25 per adult, with reduced fares for children. Prices and schedules vary by route and season, so check the operator’s current timetable and fares before booking. We were traveling as foot passengers rather than taking a car across. Once we arrived, we checked into our accommodation and got ready to explore.
🍦 First Stop: Crema
Our first stop was Crema for gelato. At this point, I think you can safely conclude that our family has a very specific approach to exploring new cities: locate the historic landmarks, admire the architecture, and find the best dessert.
Hvar’s Old Town is centered around a beautiful main square, surrounded by historic buildings and the waterfront. The streets are full of stone architecture, little shops, cafés, and restaurants, making it a lovely place to wander without needing a strict plan.
The town also has a rich Venetian heritage, and its harbor is one of the island’s most recognizable features.
After getting settled and exploring the square, we decided to visit Palmižana Beach.
🌊 Palmižana Beach: Beautiful Photos, Mixed Feelings
Palmižana sits on the Pakleni Islands just off Hvar Town, known for clear water, pine trees, coves, and beachside restaurants. On paper, exactly our kind of island experience. And the photos? Absolutely beautiful. But here’s where the honest travel review comes in.
We paid approximately €15 per person for the boat transfer, and when we arrived the beach area felt much smaller and busier than we’d anticipated. We weren’t expecting white sand (Croatia is known for pebble and rocky beaches), but we hoped for more room to spread out and snorkel. Instead it was crowded, and loungers were around €30 per chair.
Would I recommend it? It depends. If you want a scenic beach-club atmosphere and don’t mind paying for the setting, you may enjoy it. For our family, it was beautiful but not the highlight we imagined.
Pro Tip: If I did this part again, I’d spend more time exploring Hvar Island itself, including its beaches, inland villages, and coastal viewpoints, rather than committing to a crowded beach stop.
That’s the thing about travel: sometimes you discover a place that everyone loves and realize it’s not quite your thing. And that’s okay.
















🏰 Fortica: The Sunset That Made the Day
Back in Hvar Town, we decided to visit the Spanish Fortress, also known as Fortica or Španjola.But first, the girls wanted another gelato stop at aMore. Their verdict? Crema was still the favorite.
The fortress sits high above Hvar Town and offers spectacular views over the terracotta rooftops, harbor, Adriatic Sea, and the Pakleni Islands. The fortress’s present defensive structure dates largely to the sixteenth century, although the site’s history reaches back further.
We made our way uphill, stopping occasionally to take in the views. The climb was absolutely worth it. By the time we reached the top, the late-afternoon light was beginning to soften. We could see across the town and out toward the islands, with boats scattered across the water.
And then came sunset.
The entire landscape seemed to change color, and we found ourselves lingering much longer than planned. We also stopped at Caffe Bar Španjola for drinks, giving us the perfect excuse to sit, relax, and enjoy the view. It was one of those moments that reminds you why you travel: not just to see a place, but to experience it together.


















🍽️ Dinner in Hvar Old Town
Hvar takes on a different personality after dark. The harbor lights glow, boats fill the waterfront, and the cafés become lively gathering places. We chose Spice, with Asian-inspired, vegetarian, and Mediterranean options, which worked beautifully for our family. Our youngest had pesto pasta, our oldest pad Thai, the hubs a fish dish, and I had vegetable spring rolls while sampling everyone’s food. A family dinner where nobody negotiates over the menu? That’s a travel win.
After dinner we wandered the waterfront admiring the yachts, then ended the day with one more stop at Crema. I’m fairly certain the staff recognized the family that kept coming back.








🌅 Day 4: Hvar to Split — Island Mornings, Trogir & the Blue Lagoon
We started the morning slowly again, letting the girls sleep in before another day of exploring. One of the best decisions we made on this trip was building flexibility into the itinerary. We had plenty of places we wanted to see, but we didn’t want every day to feel like a race.
🍳 Brunch at Social Bar & Kitchen
Before leaving Hvar, we headed to Social Bar & Kitchen for brunch. The food was delicious, and the views of the harbor and surrounding islands made it a lovely place to linger. It was one of those meals where the setting becomes just as much a part of the experience as the food.
And yes, we went back to Crema for dessert. I’m starting to think that if we ever write a family travel memoir, Croatia’s gelato shops deserve their own chapter.
After brunch, we boarded the catamaran back to Split.
🏨 A New Home Base: Heritage Hotel Fermai
Once we arrived in Split, we took an Uber with a stop at the Radisson Blu to collect our belongings before continuing to Heritage Hotel Fermai. The hotel gave us a different base for the next part of our Split stay, and after checking in and settling down, we headed back out to explore and grab something to eat before our afternoon excursion.










🚤 Blue Lagoon & Three Islands Speedboat Tour
For the afternoon, we’d booked a Blue Lagoon and Three Islands speedboat tour through GetYourGuide. We paid $274.48 for two adults and two children. The excursion included a stop in Trogir, swimming and snorkeling in the Blue Lagoon, and time at Borkko Beach Club on Čiovo Island. It was a great opportunity to experience several different parts of the Dalmatian coast in one outing—but, as you’ll see, I have a few thoughts about how I’d plan it differently next time.
Trogir was our first stop, a historic coastal town with a beautifully preserved medieval center and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Walking its narrow stone streets feels like entering a little maze of history, and we immediately wished we had more time. Our first priority, of course, was dessert. Dovan was one of the places I was most glad we discovered. We sampled gelato and their famous local sweets, rafiol and krempita, and I genuinely regretted not buying more. We also enjoyed a delicious coffee at CHI Coffee.
Next was the Blue Lagoon, known for clear, shallow turquoise water. By late September the water was noticeably cooler, but the girls were still determined to get in and snorkel, and I love that about them. They don’t need perfect conditions to enjoy an adventure. Our last stop was Borkko Beach Club, with music, drinks, and a netted lounging area over the sea where our youngest went snorkeling. It felt crowded and more geared toward a lively beach-club scene than the quieter coastal vibe we prefer.






























💡 Would We Book This Tour Again?
Honestly, probably not in the same format. We enjoyed the boat ride and seeing different places, but the itinerary felt rushed, especially in Trogir, where we would have loved more time. Next time I’d arrange boat transportation or a more flexible outing that lets us linger in Trogir and the Blue Lagoon.
Pro Tip: Think about what you most want from an excursion before booking. A tour that visits three places may sound like better value, but two places enjoyed at your own pace are often more memorable than three rushed stops. In shoulder season, bring a towel, a light layer for the boat, and realistic expectations about water temperature.
🍷 Dinner at Mokosh
We had dinner at Mokosh, where the food and drinks were exactly what we needed after a full day out. This was also where I had my first taste of Croatian wine, and it was pretty darn good! A lovely end to a day of boats, island scenery, and a few lessons in choosing excursions. We returned to the hotel, wound down, and prepared for an early start the following morning.
Tomorrow’s destination would be one of the most breathtaking natural landscapes of the entire trip.





💦 Day 5: Plitvice Lakes National Park — A Waterfall Wonderland
We had an early start, so the hotel prepared breakfast packs for us, which was much easier than squeezing in a sit-down meal at 7 a.m. We also walked through Diocletian’s Palace before the city had fully woken up. The quiet streets felt completely different from the daytime bustle, and passing through the palace cellars before leaving for our next adventure was a lovely, intimate moment.



🚌 Booking Our Plitvice Excursion
We booked a fully guided day trip through GetYourGuide for $299.70 for three adults and one child (our 15-year-old was charged the adult rate). One detail we learned the hard way: the tour price did not include park entrance fees. We had to pay an additional €100 for our family at the start, and thankfully the hubs had euros with him.
Pro Tip: When booking a national park excursion, check whether entrance tickets, transportation within the park, and required transfers are included, and carry some cash. Don’t assume the tour price covers everything.
🌿 Exploring Plitvice Lakes
Plitvice Lakes National Park is one of Croatia’s most extraordinary natural attractions and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s famous for a series of terraced lakes connected by waterfalls, surrounded by forest and winding walking trails. The park is a completely different side of Croatia from the coastal towns we’d been exploring. Instead of stone streets, harbors, and cafés, we were surrounded by water, trees, wooden boardwalks, and the sound of waterfalls cascading through the landscape. The colors were remarkable. Depending on the light, the water shifted between turquoise, blue, and green, creating a landscape that looked almost unreal.
🌊 The Upper Lakes
We began with the Upper Lakes, where wooden paths and boardwalks lead visitors over streams, past cascades, and between pools of clear water. In late September, the first hints of autumn were beginning to appear in the surrounding hillsides. The changing colors made the scenery even more beautiful. This is a place where you’ll want to stop frequently for photographs, but don’t spend the entire time looking at it through a screen. Some of the most memorable moments came from simply standing still and listening to the water.
💦 Veliki Slap: The Great Waterfall
One of the major highlights was Veliki Slap, the Great Waterfall, which is approximately 78 meters high. The scale of the waterfall is impressive, and the sound of the water makes the experience even more powerful. Standing near the viewing area, you can feel the energy of the water as it crashes down through the landscape. It’s the kind of sight that leaves both adults and children in awe. Our girls loved seeing the waterfalls up close, and it was a wonderful reminder that nature can be just as engaging as any theme park or museum.
⛵ A Boat Ride Across Lake Kozjak
The excursion also included a boat ride across Lake Kozjak, the largest lake in the park. After hours of walking, the boat ride was a welcome change of pace. It allowed us to enjoy the scenery from the water and take a short break before continuing our exploration. The combination of walking trails, waterfalls, and the boat crossing made the experience feel varied rather than repetitive.
🌊 The Lower Lakes
We continued through the Lower Lakes, another beautiful section of the park with wooden pathways, cascading water, and stunning views. The walk brought us close to the water and through some of the park’s most photographed scenery. I would recommend wearing comfortable walking shoes with good grip, carrying water, and dressing in layers. Conditions can be cooler and more humid near the water, and the trails can be slippery. Also, plan enough time to enjoy the park without feeling rushed. It’s not a destination I would squeeze into a quick stop between other attractions.








































🍲 The Best Mushroom Soup at Bistro Vila Velebita
After several hours at the park, we boarded the bus and stopped for a late lunch at Bistro Vila Velebita. Our guide and bus driver recommended the mushroom soup, and I am so glad we listened. It may genuinely have been the best mushroom soup I’ve ever tasted. Sometimes travel memories are made by grand landmarks, and sometimes they’re made by a bowl of soup you weren’t even planning to order. This one absolutely deserves a mention.

🍷 Dinner at Noir & One More Gelato Stop
We returned to Split, freshened up, and headed to Noir for dinner. After a full day surrounded by nature, it felt good to return to the city, enjoy a meal, and relax over Croatian wine. We finished the evening at our favorite gelato stop, Gelateria Emiliana, before walking back to the hotel.






It had been a long day, but Plitvice Lakes was absolutely worth the early start.
🚗 Day 6: Split to Zadar — Taking the Scenic Route
After Plitvice we deliberately kept the morning slow. The girls slept in, we had breakfast at the hotel, and took one last walk around Split. Before leaving, we finally made it to Tradicija Bakery for traditional baked goods and picked up treats for the road, because a road trip without snacks is just a transportation problem.
We took an Uber to pick up our rental car, left our larger luggage behind, and packed a small bag for our overnight in Zadar. Rather than the quickest route, we chose the coastal drive. It takes longer, but the scenery along the Adriatic is part of the experience: coastal settlements, changing views of the sea, rugged landscapes, and glimpses of islands in the distance.
Pro Tip: Compare actual travel times for your dates and allow extra time for scenic stops. The coastal route is worth it if you enjoy road trips and don’t mind more time behind the wheel.
🏡 Checking Into Central Apartments
Once we arrived in Zadar, we checked into Central Apartments in the Old Town. One of the things that made the stay memorable was the historic character of the building, including the original eighteenth-century fresco that we had been looking forward to seeing.
Zadar’s Old Town sits on a peninsula and is compact enough to explore on foot. It has a different feel from Split and Dubrovnik: Roman remains, medieval churches, lively pedestrian streets, and a beautiful waterfront where modern public art meets the sea.
⛪ Exploring Zadar’s Historic Streets
We settled in and headed straight out to explore. Our first stop was for gelato at Sweet. It was fine, but it wasn’t a favorite for us. With so many other gelato shops around the Old Town, I’d suggest exploring your options rather than making it a must-visit. We wandered past St. Mary’s Church and Monastery and the Cathedral of St. Anastasia, a striking Romanesque cathedral whose history stretches back through several centuries of religious architecture. The surrounding historic streets are filled with small shops, cafés, and places to stop for a break.
We took our time, enjoyed some people-watching, and found ourselves looking forward to the next stop.
🍣 Dinner at Antiquus Sushi and More
We chose Antiquus Sushi and More for dinner. The food was good, the views were lovely, and the location made it an easy stop before heading to the waterfront. It was exactly what we wanted: a relaxed meal before experiencing one of Zadar’s most famous attractions.
🎶 The Sea Organ: Music Created by the Ocean
One of the main reasons I’d added Zadar to our itinerary was the Sea Organ. I’d read about it, seen photos, and heard that the sea itself creates the music. But being there in person was something else entirely.
Designed by Croatian architect Nikola Bašić, the Sea Organ is a public installation built into the waterfront steps. Beneath the stone surface are pipes and resonant chambers that transform the movement of waves and tides into a constantly changing series of musical tones. The ocean effectively becomes the instrument.
As we walked toward the water, we began to hear the sounds emerging from the steps. It wasn’t music in the traditional sense. There was no melody that repeated in exactly the same way, no performer to watch, and no schedule to follow. The sea was doing all the work. We sat, listened, watched the waves, and took in the changing light as the sun began to sink toward the horizon.
And then came the sunset.
Zadar is famous for its sunsets, and it’s easy to understand why. The colors stretched across the water, the Sea Organ continued its gentle, unpredictable music, and the entire waterfront seemed to slow down. It was one of those experiences that photographs can capture but never quite explain.
🌅 The Greeting to the Sun
Right beside the Sea Organ is another installation called the Greeting to the Sun. It consists of circular glass panels with solar cells beneath them. During the day, the installation absorbs solar energy; after sunset, it produces a colorful light display that complements the sounds of the Sea Organ. We enjoyed the waterfront atmosphere as the lights began to appear.
It’s such a simple concept, but the combination of art, light, music, and nature makes this one of Zadar’s most memorable places to visit. If you’re planning an evening here, I’d recommend arriving before sunset so you can experience both installations as the light changes.
🍦 Because One Dessert Is Never Enough
After sunset we stopped at Michelangelo Homemade Gelato, then Mlinar for burek, and somehow made room for one final ice cream at Bob Rock’s. By around 11 p.m. we were ready to head back. Zadar had already become one of the unexpected highlights of our trip.





































🌄 Day 7: Zadar at Sunrise & the Beauty of Krka National Park
I’m usually the early riser in our family, and I love taking advantage of the quiet hours in a new destination. So while everyone else slept, I slipped out to explore Zadar before the city woke up.
🌅 A Quiet Morning by the Sea Organ
The Old Town was almost completely empty. The narrow streets felt peaceful, the waterfront was quiet, and there was a calmness that is hard to find once the day gets underway. I made my way back to the Sea Organ. Without the crowds and conversations around me, I could hear the sounds of the water much more clearly. I sat there and listened, enjoying the experience in a way that felt completely different from the evening before. I also noticed hundreds of fish moving through the water near the waterfront. It almost looked like they came out to dance to the music.
What I can tell you is that the quiet morning gave me a chance to notice the little details that are easy to miss when a place is busy. I returned to the apartment feeling refreshed and ready to get the family up for another day of exploring.
💶 A Practical Zadar Tip: Carry Some Cash
Before heading out, we needed to visit a bank to exchange some money. We had reached the point where our euros were running low, and we discovered that cash was useful for several of the smaller businesses and attractions we wanted to visit. We also needed cash for the bell tower. Although many places accept cards, don’t assume every café, shop, or small attraction will. Having a little cash available can save you an inconvenient detour.
🔔 Climbing the Bell Tower of the Cathedral of St. Anastasia
Our next stop was the bell tower of the Cathedral of St. Anastasia. The cathedral is one of Zadar’s most recognizable historic buildings, and climbing the tower gives you a completely different perspective of the city. From above, you can see the terracotta rooftops, the narrow streets of the Old Town, the waterfront, and the surrounding Adriatic coastline. It’s a wonderful way to understand the layout of the city and appreciate just how close everything is to the water.
If you enjoy panoramic views, I’d recommend adding the tower to your itinerary. Check the current opening hours and ticket price locally, as these can vary.
☕ Coffee & Brunch at Kavana Centar
After our climb, we stopped at Kavana Centar for brunch and coffee. The coffee was so good that I wish we’d bought some beans to bring home. We learned that the coffee was made with Hausbrandt beans, a brand with Italian roots. It was one of those small food discoveries that stays with you long after the trip.
If you love finding great coffee while traveling, don’t underestimate the joy of sitting down at a local café and ordering something simple. Sometimes the best souvenir is the memory of a really good cup of coffee. Sometimes it’s a bag of beans, which I regret not buying!































🚗 Onward to Krka National Park
After brunch, we packed up, checked out, and prepared for the drive to Krka National Park.
This time, we took the toll route to save time and give ourselves more room to explore the park.
Driving in Croatia was relatively straightforward for us, but if you’re renting a car, make sure you understand the toll system and your rental company’s payment arrangements. Many toll booths accept cards, but it’s still sensible to have some cash available.
💦 Krka National Park: Waterfalls, Wooden Paths & Natural Beauty
We arrived at Krka National Park and purchased our tickets at the park office. We had considered booking a guided excursion, but as a family, we decided we’d rather explore at our own pace. This turned out to be a good choice for us.
Krka National Park is known for its waterfalls, river landscapes, travertine formations, and historic watermills. One of its most famous attractions is Skradinski buk, a broad series of cascading waterfalls and natural pools surrounded by lush greenery.
We spent several hours exploring the area, following the walking paths and enjoying the changing views of the river and waterfalls. The wooden walkways take you through a beautiful landscape where water flows around rocks, under bridges, and through layers of vegetation. The sound of the waterfalls follows you along the paths, creating a peaceful atmosphere even when other visitors are around.
We stopped frequently to admire the scenery and take photographs, and the girls enjoyed discovering different viewpoints as we moved through the park.
One important planning note: swimming rules vary by area, and swimming is not permitted at Skradinski buk. Check the park’s current rules before planning any water activities.
🛍️ Supporting Local Vendors
After exploring the falls, we took time to browse the local stalls and shops. I love supporting local vendors when we travel, particularly when we find handmade items or regional treats that we can bring home to share with family and friends. We picked up a few things for the road and some souvenirs to bring back to Arizona. It’s one of my favorite ways to make travel feel more personal: bringing home something that reminds you of the place, the people, and the experience.
























🍽️ Back to Split for Dinner at Fig
After our visit to Krka, we returned to Split. We were ready for a good meal, so we headed to Fig, located in the Diocletian’s Palace area. The food and drinks were exactly what we needed after another full day of adventures. After dinner, we explored the palace one more time. By this point, we’d walked its lanes so many times that we were beginning to recognize our favorite corners without needing a map.
We stopped at Amare Gelateria for dessert, strolled along the Splitska Riva, and then decided to try grilled corn from a street vendor.
Because apparently, there is always room for one more snack. The corn was delicious, and it was a lovely way to end the evening like the locals.
We returned to the hotel, wound down, and packed for the next leg of our journey.
Tomorrow, we were heading south to Dubrovnik.

















🌊 Day 8: The Drive to Dubrovnik — A Beautiful New Chapter
We had breakfast at Heritage Hotel Fermai, which I have to mention was excellent: freshly prepared, lovely ingredients, the perfect start to a travel day. Before leaving Split, we made one final stop at Tradicija Bakery for road treats.
Then came the luggage. Cars in Europe may say they fit four large suitcases, but be prepared for that not to be the case. The hubs did a little Tetris and managed to get everything in, with one large suitcase wedged in the middle of the back seat. We told the girls it would be fun.
The drive south offers a beautiful look at Croatia’s coastline, with stretches of Adriatic scenery, coastal settlements, and dramatic landscapes. We enjoyed having our own car for the flexibility. We returned it at the Dubrovnik airport and took an Uber to our final hotel.
Pro Tip: Check your route carefully and allow time for traffic, plus any border considerations if your chosen route crosses into another country. The fastest route isn’t always the most scenic.







🏨 Hotel Bellevue Dubrovnik: A View Worth Remembering
We checked into Hotel Bellevue Dubrovnik, part of the Adriatic Luxury Hotels collection, and wow. The hotel sits above a beautiful bay with views that immediately make you want to stop unpacking and just stare out the window. Our suite was gorgeous, and we made sure to appreciate the view before rushing off. It’s easy to get so focused on what’s next that you forget to enjoy where you are.
🍽️ Dinner at Restaurant & Bar Rudjer
That evening we headed into the Old Town for dinner at Restaurant & Bar Rudjer. The location was convenient and a nice introduction to Dubrovnik’s restaurant scene, but the food was just okay for us. We felt it could have used more flavor. I always like to share these experiences, because a beautiful location doesn’t automatically mean a memorable meal.









🎬 The Jesuit Stairs & Game of Thrones
After dinner we made our way to the famous Jesuit Stairs, the setting for Cersei Lannister’s walk of atonement. Naturally, I had to take photos and videos recreating the scene. I mean, when in Dubrovnik, right? The city was a major filming location for King’s Landing, and the real city is every bit as fascinating as the fictional one.
Pro Tip: We considered Buža Bar, the famous cliffside bar built into the city walls, but skipped it with the girls in tow. Add it to your list if you’re traveling sans kids.



🍦 The Maskeron Challenge & Dessert
One quirky stop we absolutely had to make was the Maskeron gargoyle. The stone gargoyle is associated with a local legend: balancing on it is said to bring luck in love. It’s tucked into the historic Old Town, and finding it is part of the fun. The girls had a great time trying the challenge, and our 15-year-old made it look surprisingly easy. I have no idea what that means for her future love life, but I’m choosing to believe the universe has taken note!
We finished the evening with gelato from Bananito and Mostro Gelato before heading back to the hotel. The night ended with one of our favorite family traditions: playing games together. Our current favorite is Imposter, which always seems to produce plenty of laughter and a few suspicious accusations.
And just like that, we were settling into Dubrovnik.









🏰 Day 9: Exploring Dubrovnik’s City Walls, History & Game of Thrones Locations
The next morning started with one of my favorite things about our hotel: a beautiful rooftop breakfast overlooking the Adriatic. There’s something special about starting your day with a view like that, especially when you know you have a full day of exploring ahead!
After breakfast, we headed into Old Town for an excursion I had booked through GetYourGuide: Dubrovnik: City Walls, Old Town Walking Tour & Adriatic View. The guided tour was approximately $28 per person, but one important detail to know is that the City Walls admission was not included. We had to purchase those tickets separately.
The tour took us through some of Dubrovnik’s most iconic landmarks, beginning at the majestic Pile Gate. We walked along Stradun, the beautiful limestone-paved main street, and learned about the city’s fascinating history, resilience, and architecture. Along the way, we visited St. Saviour Church, the Franciscan Monastery area and its historic pharmacy, the Cathedral of the Assumption, the famous Jesuit Stairs, Luža Square and its Clock Tower, and the Old City Harbor.
Our guide shared stories that brought the city to life, and we had plenty of opportunities to stop for photos. But my biggest recommendation from this day is something I wish every first-time visitor knew before arriving:
⭐ My biggest Dubrovnik tip: Buy the Dubrovnik Pass!
If you’re planning to explore more than just the Old Town streets, I highly recommend looking into the Dubrovnik Pass. We chose the one-day pass, and it was absolutely worth it for our family because it included so much more than just the City Walls.
When we visited, the prices we were quoted were:
| Pass | Price |
|---|---|
| City Walls ticket only | €40 |
| 1-day Dubrovnik Pass | €40 per adult / €15 per child |
| 3-day Dubrovnik Pass | €50 |
| 7-day Dubrovnik Pass | €60 |
These are the prices from our trip, not a guarantee of today’s rates. Check the official Dubrovnik Pass website for current prices, child eligibility, and inclusions before you go.
Here’s what made the pass such a great value. The one-day pass included admission to:
- Dubrovnik City Walls – Walk the impressive fortifications surrounding the Old Town.
- Lovrijenac Fortress – The dramatic fortress perched on a rocky cliff just outside the western walls.
- Rector’s Palace – A beautiful historic palace that once served as the seat of government of the Republic of Ragusa. Today, it houses a cultural history museum.
- Maritime Museum – Discover Dubrovnik’s long relationship with the sea, shipping, and maritime trade.
- Ethnographic Museum – Explore traditional life, clothing, customs, and local heritage.
- Marin Držić House – Learn about one of Croatia’s most celebrated Renaissance playwrights.
- Dubrovnik Natural History Museum – Discover the region’s natural history and biodiversity.
- Friars Minor Franciscan Monastery Museum – Explore the monastery’s collection and its rich history.
- Museum of Modern Art Dubrovnik – A collection of modern and contemporary art.
- Dulčić–Masle–Pulitika Gallery – See works by three notable Croatian artists.
- Pulitika Studio – A small artistic space dedicated to painter Ivo Dulčić’s contemporary.
- Archaeological exhibitions – Discover artifacts and exhibitions that offer a glimpse into Dubrovnik’s past.
- Public transportation – A bus ticket was also included, which came in handy for getting around the city.
Why the pass made sense for us: The standalone City Walls ticket alone was €40 at the time we visited, while the one-day pass was the same price for an adult and included all these additional attractions and transportation. If you plan to visit even a few of the museums or fortresses, the value can add up quickly.
One thing I especially loved was the flexibility. We didn’t have to squeeze every attraction into one continuous sightseeing marathon. We could explore, take a break, and come back to other places during the pass’s validity period.
A little transportation tip: The bus ticket included with our pass was valid for 24 hours from activation. We didn’t activate ours until close to 5 p.m., so we were able to use it that evening to get back to our hotel. That timing worked out really well for us! Just be sure to check the current activation rules and whether the transport portion starts separately from attraction admission.
Walking the Dubrovnik City Walls
The City Walls were absolutely one of the highlights of our day. If you visit Dubrovnik, I would put this experience near the top of your must-do list.
The walls stretch for approximately 1.94 kilometers (1.2 miles) around the historic Old Town. Their construction and expansion took place over centuries, with major fortification work continuing through the 17th century. In places, the walls rise as high as 25 meters, with towers, bastions, and fortresses built into the defensive system.
As you walk along the top, you get an entirely different perspective of Dubrovnik. On one side, you’ll see the beautiful terracotta rooftops packed tightly together; on the other, the sparkling Adriatic Sea stretches out beyond the old stone fortifications. You’ll also spot towers, churches, hidden courtyards, and the surrounding coastline.
My tip: Don’t rush this walk just to get from one end to the other. There are so many incredible photo opportunities, and the views change as you make your way around. Take your time, stop often, and soak it all in. Wear comfortable shoes, bring water, and be prepared for stairs and exposed sections with very little shade. Allow around 1.5–2 hours for a relaxed walk, depending on how often you stop.




















































And for all my Game of Thrones fans, keep your eyes open! Dubrovnik was the real-life filming backdrop for much of King’s Landing, and you’ll recognize several locations along the way:
- Fort Lovrijenac (The Red Keep): This dramatic fortress just outside the City Walls served as the exterior of the Red Keep, home of the rulers of King’s Landing.
- Minčeta Tower (House of the Undying): This impressive tower, part of the City Walls, appeared as the exterior of the House of the Undying in Qarth.
- Bokar Fortress: Another recognizable fortification featured in King’s Landing scenes, with beautiful views over the sea.
- The Old Town rooftops and streets: Many of the narrow lanes and red-roofed buildings you’ll see from the walls were used to bring King’s Landing to life.
- The Jesuit Stairs: You’ll recognize these from Cersei Lannister’s unforgettable Walk of Shame scene. We visited these later in the day, too!
- Jesuit Stairs – Cersei’s Walk of Shame: Remember Cersei’s unforgettable walk through King’s Landing? The famous staircase beside St. Ignatius Church is where that iconic scene began. And the best part? You can visit it for free!
- Minčeta Tower – House of the Undying: You’ll spot this impressive round tower while walking the City Walls. It represented the exterior of the mysterious House of the Undying in Qarth.
- Rector’s Palace – The Spice King’s Palace: The beautiful palace courtyard appeared as the Spice King’s residence in Qarth.
- St. Dominic Street – King’s Landing Market: This charming stone street near the Dominican Monastery appeared in several market and city scenes.
Even if you’re not a Game of Thrones fan, the history and architecture alone make this walk unforgettable.















Lunch, a Family Vote & More Exploring
After our City Walls adventure, we stopped for lunch at Alamaka Tapas Bar in Old Town. It was the perfect opportunity to sit down, unwind, and enjoy some delicious tapas before continuing our day.
After lunch, we decided to take a family vote on what everyone wanted to do next. Our youngest daughter and Abhi were ready to head back to the hotel for some beach time, while my older daughter and I still had a few places we wanted to explore.
So we split up for a little while!
My daughter and I headed to some of the historic sites around Old Town:
Lovrijenac Fortress: Also known as St. Lawrence Fortress, this impressive structure sits on a 37-meter-high rock just outside the western City Walls. It was built to help defend Dubrovnik from attacks, particularly from the sea. Today, it is one of the city’s most recognizable landmarks and a must-visit for Game of Thrones fans because it doubled as the exterior of the Red Keep.
The views from the fortress are spectacular, especially looking back toward the City Walls and the Adriatic. And yes, this is another one of those places where you’ll want your camera ready!
Rector’s Palace: This beautiful Gothic-Renaissance palace was once the center of political life in the Republic of Ragusa. The Rector lived and worked here during his short term in office, and the building served as the seat of government for centuries.
Today, it houses the Cultural History Museum, where you can see historical furniture, portraits, documents, and artifacts that tell the story of Dubrovnik’s past. Game of Thrones fans may also recognize the palace’s beautiful atrium, which appeared as part of the Spice King’s palace in Qarth.
The Old Pharmacy at the Franciscan Monastery: This was one of the most fascinating stops for me. Established in 1317, the pharmacy is considered one of the oldest continuously operating pharmacies in Europe. It is still functioning today!
Inside, you’ll find historical pharmacy equipment, old manuscripts, and displays that give you a glimpse into how medicine was prepared and practiced centuries ago. It’s amazing to think that this pharmacy has been part of Dubrovnik’s history for so long.
Dominican Monastery Museum: The Dominican Monastery is another beautiful historic complex, known for its Gothic architecture, peaceful cloister, religious art, and collection of paintings and artifacts. The monastery played an important role in Dubrovnik’s religious and cultural history.
For Game of Thrones fans, the nearby St. Dominic Street, just outside the monastery, was used for several King’s Landing market scenes. It’s worth wandering through this area and looking at the narrow stone streets with a fresh perspective.
A note about the pass: The Dominican Monastery Museum was one of the places we explored, but it is not listed among the standard Dubrovnik Pass inclusions. The pass did include the Friars Minor Franciscan Monastery Museum, which is a different site. Make sure you check which attractions are included before planning your route.
When the Best Plan Is No Plan
We had originally planned a Dubrovnik sea kayaking and snorkeling tour for the afternoon, but after our family vote that plan was officially vetoed. And honestly? I was okay with it. Once you’re actually there, slowing down and enjoying where you are can be just as meaningful. Of course, we also made another stop at Peppino’s along the way. No Dubrovnik day seemed complete without it!
Sunset Views Over Dubrovnik: Skip the Cable Car?
Around 5 p.m., we used our Dubrovnik Pass bus ticket to head back toward the hotel, freshened up, and headed out again for sunset at the viewpoint above the city, near where the cable car takes visitors up the mountain. You can see the entire Old Town, the terracotta rooftops, the City Walls, the Adriatic, and the surrounding hills.
Pro Tip: If you’re a family of four, compare the cost of an Uber to the viewpoint with the cable car. We took an Uber and it was considerably less expensive than four cable car tickets.
Dinner, Gelato & Family Time
After sunset we had dinner at Spaghetteria Toni, absolutely delicious and exactly what we needed, plus one more stop at Peppino’s, of course. We ended the night with drinks and snacks at the hotel’s rooftop bar, with the girls, talking about our adventures and sharing our favorite moments.
The landmarks and excursions are wonderful, but it’s the little moments in between that become the memories you hold onto the longest.

















🇭🇷 Day 10: Slowing Down in Dubrovnik – Beach Time, Old Town & Our Last Sunset
After days of historic towns, climbing towers, ancient walls, and waterfalls, we finally gave ourselves permission to slow down. It was our last full day in Croatia, and instead of another packed itinerary, we decided to enjoy Dubrovnik at a relaxed pace. We had a leisurely breakfast at Hotel Bellevue, with no tour to catch and no guide to meet.
🏝️ Lokrum Island: Worth Adding to Your Itinerary?
We had originally planned to visit Lokrum Island, but after talking it over as a family, we chose a beach day instead. I’m perfectly happy with that decision, but Lokrum is still a wonderful option if you have extra time. Just a short boat ride from the Old City Harbor, it offers:
- A historic Benedictine monastery complex
- Botanical gardens
- The Dead Sea, a small saltwater lake surrounded by rocks and popular for swimming
- A replica Iron Throne for a fun Game of Thrones souvenir photo
- Rocky swimming areas and scenic walking trails away from the busy Old Town
Pro Tip: Allow a few hours for Lokrum rather than treating it as a quick stop, and check boat schedules and seasonal operating information, as services vary throughout the year.
After days of exploring historic towns, climbing towers, walking ancient city walls, chasing waterfalls, and squeezing in as many experiences as possible, we finally gave ourselves permission to slow down. It was our last full day in Croatia, and instead of filling it with another packed itinerary, we decided to enjoy Dubrovnik at a more relaxed pace.
One thing I’ve learned from traveling with family is that sometimes you have to leave room for the unexpected. We often plan so much because we want to see and experience everything, but once you’re actually there, you realize that some of the best memories come from simply enjoying where you are.
And that’s exactly what this day turned into.
A Slow Morning & One Last Dubrovnik Breakfast
We started the morning with a leisurely breakfast at Hotel Bellevue. By this point in our trip, we had settled into the rhythm of our hotel, and I loved being able to enjoy one more morning with those beautiful Adriatic views. We weren’t rushing to catch a tour or meet a guide. We could take our time, enjoy breakfast, and decide how we wanted to spend our final full day.








Lokrum Island: Worth Adding to Your Dubrovnik Itinerary?
We had originally planned to visit Lokrum Island, but after talking it over as a family, we chose a beach day instead. I’m perfectly happy with that decision, but Lokrum is still a wonderful option if you have extra time. Just a short boat ride from the Old City Harbor, it offers:
- A historic Benedictine monastery complex
- Botanical gardens
- The Dead Sea, a small saltwater lake surrounded by rocks and popular for swimming
- A replica Iron Throne for a fun Game of Thrones souvenir photo
- Rocky swimming areas and scenic walking trails away from the busy Old Town
Pro Tip: Allow a few hours for Lokrum rather than treating it as a quick stop, and check boat schedules and seasonal operating information, as services vary throughout the year.
One Last Stroll Through Old Town & A Little Souvenir Shopping
Before heading to the beach, we made our way back through Dubrovnik’s beautiful Old Town for one last wander. I always enjoy browsing local shops when we travel, especially when I can find something that reminds me of the culture and character of the destination. We spent time looking at Croatian lavender products, handmade items, and locally made olive oil.
There are so many little shops and local vendors tucked throughout Old Town, and it’s worth taking your time to explore beyond the main streets. A few things I’d recommend looking for:
- Lavender products: Croatia, particularly the Dalmatian region, is known for lavender. Look for sachets, soaps, essential oils, and other locally inspired products.
- Olive oil: Croatian olive oil makes a wonderful souvenir, especially if you enjoy cooking. Look for locally produced bottles and check packaging requirements if you’re flying home.
- Handmade crafts: Browse for locally made jewelry, decorative pieces, and other unique keepsakes.
- Local treats: If you enjoy bringing home something edible, look for regional sweets and other Croatian specialties.
Travel tip: If you’re shopping for gifts, don’t leave everything until your final hour. Some of the smaller shops have unique items that you may not find elsewhere, and you’ll want enough room in your luggage to bring everything home!
An Afternoon to Recharge: Beach Time & Hotel Relaxation
After our last little shopping adventure, we decided it was time to enjoy the water. We spent the afternoon at the beach, soaking up the beautiful Adriatic and enjoying some much-needed downtime together. After all the walking and exploring we’d done throughout Croatia, it felt wonderful to have nowhere in particular to be. No schedule, no tour group, no rushing to the next attraction. Just enjoying the sunshine, the water, and being together.
We also took advantage of the hotel’s sauna, steam room, and spa facilities. It was such a nice way to unwind and recharge before heading home. This is something I’d encourage anyone planning a family trip to remember: build in a little downtime. Especially when you’re traveling with kids, having a day or even just an afternoon without an agenda can make the entire vacation more enjoyable.
You don’t have to see everything to have an incredible trip.






🌅 Our Last Coastal Walk & Soul Kitchen
Later we took a coastal walk toward Old Town for sunset. There’s something about Dubrovnik in the evening that makes you want to slow down and take it all in. For our final dinner we tried Soul Kitchen in Old Town. The food was really good, but unfortunately the service left something to be desired.
Because no evening in Dubrovnik is complete without gelato, we made a couple of stops: Peppino’s, a familiar favorite, and Mostro Gelato, where I had my favorite orange gelato of the trip. It was SO good, and I’d happily go back just for another scoop.
One Last Night Together: Family Games, Packing & Memories
Eventually, it was time to head back to Hotel Bellevue and face the reality that our Croatia adventure was coming to an end. We spent the evening packing, organizing our souvenirs, and figuring out how we were going to fit everything into our luggage. Somehow, we had managed to collect quite a few more things than we originally planned! But that’s part of traveling, right? You leave with more than you came with—sometimes a little extra luggage, but definitely a lot more memories.
We ended the evening enjoying some family time and playing our favorite games. We talked about the trip, shared our favorite experiences, and reminisced about all the places we’d explored together. From Split’s historic streets and Hvar’s beautiful sunsets to the turquoise lakes of Plitvice, Zadar’s magical Sea Organ, Krka’s waterfalls, and Dubrovnik’s unforgettable Old Town, Croatia had given us so many wonderful experiences. And while we were sad to be leaving, I was grateful that we’d chosen to make our final full day a little slower.
Because when I look back at our travels, it’s not always the biggest excursions or the most famous landmarks that stand out. Sometimes it’s the laughter over dinner, the spontaneous gelato stops, the family conversations, and those quiet moments when you realize just how lucky you are to experience these adventures together.
Tomorrow, it would be time to pack up, say goodbye to Croatia, and head home—with full hearts, countless photos, a little extra luggage, and memories we’ll be talking about for years to come.












✈️ Day 11: Saying Goodbye to Croatia
Departure days always feel a little different. You’re ready to go home, but you’re also not quite ready to leave. You’ve spent days discovering new places, building routines, finding favorite restaurants, and making memories that will stay with you long after the trip ends.
We let everyone sleep in and enjoyed a slow, delicious breakfast at the hotel. Before leaving, I had one last special moment to myself.
📚 A Book for the Next Traveler
Hotel Bellevue had a lovely library where guests could leave a book and take another. I loved the idea. I had brought a vacation book with me, and I decided to leave it behind for another traveler to discover. Books are meant to travel, too.
There’s something special about leaving a little piece of your journey for someone you may never meet. Maybe the next person who picks up that book will be on their own adventure, looking for a quiet moment, or simply wanting something to read while enjoying the view.
It was a small gesture, but one that felt like a fitting way to end our stay.
🚕 One Last Travel Tip: Plan for Your Luggage
We had to rebook our taxi to the airport because we needed to make sure there was enough room for four people, backpacks, and several large suitcases. A vehicle that technically fits four passengers may not have enough space for everyone’s luggage, especially when you’ve accumulated souvenirs along the way.
If you’re traveling with a family, confirm the vehicle size and luggage capacity when arranging airport transfers. It can save you a stressful last-minute scramble.
❤️ Leaving Croatia with Full Hearts
Our journey home was long, but it was worth every minute. We returned with thousands of photos, phones full of videos, memories from six different kinds of adventures, and suitcases full of dirty laundry. And, of course, souvenirs.
But the best things we brought home weren’t the items in our luggage. They were the memories: walking through Split’s ancient palace, watching the sunset from Hvar’s fortress, listening to the sea play music in Zadar, standing in awe of the waterfalls at Plitvice Lakes, exploring Dubrovnik’s historic streets, and laughing together over one more gelato stop.






Croatia gave us a little bit of everything, and I’m so glad we made the journey.
🧠 Jalpa Journeys Tips: Save This Section
Every trip leaves you with a few “we’re so glad we did that” moments and a few “we’d do that differently next time” lessons. If you’re planning your own Croatian adventure, here are the things I’d keep in mind.
✔️ Plan Your Route Before Booking Hotels
Croatia has so many wonderful destinations that it’s tempting to squeeze them all into one trip. But travel between cities and islands takes time.
We found that having a clear route—Split, Hvar, Plitvice Lakes, Zadar, Krka, and Dubrovnik—helped us organize the journey without constantly backtracking.
✔️ Leave Time for Slow Mornings
One of my biggest travel rules is to leave room for the family to rest.
We deliberately kept several mornings flexible, and it made the entire trip more enjoyable. You don’t need to leave the hotel at 7 a.m. every day to have a memorable vacation.
✔️ Pack Light for Island Trips
When taking a passenger catamaran, keep your large suitcases at the hotel if possible and carry a small overnight bag.
Check your accommodation’s luggage-storage policy ahead of time so you aren’t scrambling at the port.
✔️ Check What’s Included in Excursions
Don’t assume the price of a guided tour includes all attraction tickets, transfers, meals, or park entrance fees.
We learned this with Plitvice Lakes. Confirming those details ahead of time helps you budget accurately and avoid surprises.
✔️ Compare Multi-Attraction Passes With Individual Tickets
In Dubrovnik, the pass worked well for our itinerary because we visited multiple attractions and used public transportation.
But the best value depends on how much you plan to see. Make a list of your intended visits and compare the costs before buying.
✔️ Carry Some Euros in Cash
Cards are convenient, but we found cash useful at certain smaller businesses and attractions, particularly in Zadar.
Keep a modest amount of cash handy, while checking the payment options for major attractions in advance.
✔️ Wear Comfortable Shoes
Croatia’s historic centers are beautiful, but they involve plenty of walking on stone streets, steps, and uneven surfaces.
Bring comfortable walking shoes, and consider water shoes for rocky or pebbled beaches.
✔️ Be Flexible With Boat Tours
Boat excursions can be wonderful, but a tightly scheduled itinerary may leave you wishing you had more time in a particular place.
For us, Trogir was the stop we wanted more time to explore. If you’re most interested in one destination, consider arranging a more flexible excursion.
✔️ Don’t Underestimate the Shoulder Season
Our September–October trip gave us a wonderful mix of historic sightseeing, coastal scenery, and quieter moments. However, water temperatures can be cooler, and some seasonal services may operate on reduced schedules.
Check ferry timetables, boat excursions, and attraction opening hours for your exact travel dates.
✔️ Leave Room for Food Discoveries
Some of our favorite memories involved bakeries, local coffee, Croatian wine, olive oil, and gelato.
You don’t need to plan every meal in advance. Leave room to follow recommendations, explore a local market, or stop somewhere that catches your eye.
✔️ Don’t Feel Guilty About Changing Plans
We skipped kayaking and Lokrum Island because we wanted to slow down and enjoy the moment. We also had an excursion that wasn’t quite right for us.
Both experiences taught us something: the best itinerary isn’t the one where you do the most. It’s the one that works for you and your family.
🎒 What to Pack for Croatia
If you’re visiting Croatia in September or October, I recommend packing for a mix of coastal warmth, cooler evenings, outdoor activities, and plenty of walking.
- Comfortable walking shoes: Essential for the Old Towns, historic sites, and national parks.
- Water shoes: Helpful for rocky and pebbled beaches.
- Light layers: Temperatures can vary between coastal towns, mountain areas, and evenings.
- A light rain jacket: Useful if the weather changes during your trip.
- Swimwear and a quick-drying towel: Great for beach days and boat excursions.
- Sun protection: Sunscreen, sunglasses, and a hat are still useful in early autumn.
- A small daypack: Perfect for carrying water, snacks, and essentials while exploring.
- A portable charger: You’ll likely take plenty of photos and use your phone for navigation.
- Some euros in cash: Useful for smaller purchases or places where card payment isn’t available.
- A little extra luggage space: Trust me, you’ll find things you want to bring home.
- Yes, pack your drone (if you have one): So many places to take amazing aerial view shots.
🍴 Our Croatia Food & Coffee Guide
Coffee & Bakeries
- Kala Caffe Bar (Split) — the Dalmatian coffee ritual inside the palace area
- Bobis (Split) — try the krafna and the mali burek špinat
- Tradicija Bakery (Split) — our road-trip snack stop, twice
- Kavana Centar (Zadar) — Hausbrandt coffee so good I wish I’d bought the beans
- CHI Coffee (Trogir) — a delicious coffee break on the Blue Lagoon tour
- Mlinar (Zadar) — burek
Restaurants We Loved
- PIZZAFERAJ City (Split) — sourdough pizza and great ambience
- Spice (Hvar) — Asian-inspired, vegetarian, and Mediterranean, great when everyone wants something different
- Social Bar & Kitchen (Hvar) — brunch with harbor views
- Mokosh and Noir (Split) — great food, and my first Croatian wine
- Bistro Vila Velebita (near Plitvice) — the best mushroom soup I’ve ever had
- Fig (Split) — in the Diocletian’s Palace area
- Alamaka Tapas Bar and Spaghetteria Toni (Dubrovnik) — both delicious
Just Okay (Honest Reviews)
- Restaurant & Bar Rudjer (Dubrovnik) — convenient location, but the food needed more flavor
- Soul Kitchen (Dubrovnik) — really good food, but the service left something to be desired
- Sweet (Zadar) — gelato was fine, but not a must-visit
Gelato (The Important Category)
- Crema (Hvar) — the family favorite, and we visited more than once
- Gelateria Emiliana (Split) — our favorite in Split
- Dovan (Trogir) — gelato plus local sweets like rafiol and krempita
- Mostro Gelato (Dubrovnik) — the orange gelato was SO good
- Peppino’s (Dubrovnik) — a daily stop
- Also loved: Gelateria Riva, aMore, Michelangelo Homemade Gelato, Bob Rock’s, Amare Gelateria, Bananito
💭 Final Thoughts: Croatia, You Have Our Hearts
Croatia was a beautiful reminder of why we travel as a family. Not just to see famous landmarks or visit places we’ve saved on our maps, but to experience the world together. To walk through streets that have stood for centuries. To listen to the ocean create music. To stand beside waterfalls and feel small in the best possible way. To try foods we’ve never had before. To watch the girls discover new places, ask questions, and make memories of their own.
Some experiences exceeded our expectations. Some taught us what we’d do differently next time. And some of the best moments were the ones we never could have planned—the quiet morning in Zadar, the sunset from Hvar’s fortress, the mushroom soup after Plitvice Lakes, or the simple joy of sitting together at the end of a long day.
We didn’t need every moment to be perfect. We just needed to be present enough to enjoy it. And Croatia gave us so many reasons to do exactly that.
If you’re considering a trip to Croatia, I hope this guide helps you plan an itinerary that balances history, nature, food, adventure, and downtime. Take the scenic route when you can. Support the local businesses that make each place special. Ask questions, follow recommendations, and don’t be afraid to change your plans when the moment calls for it.
And please, leave room for gelato. Lots of gelato.
Because if there’s one thing our family learned in Croatia, it’s that the best memories often happen between the big attractions—in the quiet walks, the unplanned stops, the shared meals, and the moments when everyone is together and nobody is looking at the clock.
Until the next adventure, Croatia. 🇭🇷❤️
Travel well, eat well, and collect memories.
— JalpaJourneys
www.jalpajourneys.com • @jalpajourneys
